retinol | skinmedix

You say Retinol, I say Retinoid

By on August 1, 2013 in anti-aging

Confused by all the name variations? Don’t be. Here, a guide to all these perplexingly named vitamin A derviatives.

Retinoids: The umbrella term used to describe all vitamin A derivatives used in skin care.

Retinoic acid (aka tretinoin): The only vitamin A derivative proven to alter gene expression and bring about cellular changes in the skin to produce measurable anti-aging results. It is present in prescription retinoids such a Retin-A, and is the chemical that over-the-counter retinol is converted into after being absorbed and processed by the skin.

Retin-A: The brand name for the first prescription retinoic acid.

Retinol: A vitamin A derivative used in non-prescription anti-aging products to increase collagen production. The amount often found in an over-the-counter formula is 1%.

Reintyl Palmitate: A weaker, less irritating vitamin A derivative that is stored in the skin and undergoes an enzymatic conversion to retinol and ultimately retinoic acid.

Tip: Deciding on which type of retinoid and which percentage strength is best for you will depend on how your skin tolerates the retinoid. Generally, you go with the strongest retinoid you can tolerate with the least amount of irritation, even if that retinoid is considered weak.

5 Superstar Anti-Aging Ingredients

By Skinmedix on January 11, 2013 in anti-aging, beauty, top 5

Meet the super star players of the skin care world – and learn how to make the work for you.

1. RETINOL (a.k.a. the Cure-All)

What It Does: This vitamin A derivatives that unclog pores, boost collagen to reduce fine lines, and speed cell turnover to even out discoloration and smooth the skin—sometimes in as little as four weeks. Forms of retinol “are among the best anti-aging ingredients we have,” says Jeffrey Dover, an associate clinical professor of dermatology at the Yale School of Medicine.

How It Works: Retinol works so well for skin care because of its molecular size. Vitamin A has long been known to help keep skin healthy and young-looking. However, most forms of vitamin A have molecules that are too large to get through the top layer of skin and into the lower layers of skin to work on the collagen and elastin. Collagen and elastin are both important components for the prevention of wrinkles. Once applied, the retinol sinks into the lower levels of the skin and stimulates the collagen and elastin. This causes the skin to look smoother and feel firmer.

How to Get the Best Results:
• Pay attention to packaging. Buy it in an aluminum tube or an opaque plastic pump bottle so light and air don’t degrade it.
• Use it at night. The vampire of the skin-care world, retinol works best in the dark.
• Put it on after cleansing. Wash your face with warm water and make sure it’s dry before applying retinol. Then, blood vessels and pores are dilated, making more space between cells for absorption. (Prescription versions, called retinoids, in particular must be applied to dry skin or they absorb too quickly and irritate.)
• Make sure it tingles. If you can’t feel it, it’s not strong enough, says Dover.
• Go easy on your eyes. Dab around the eye area every third night. Retinol is great for undereye crepiness.

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